That's right, even SFT members will be able to build this project, even Scumley.
No, I don't expect thanks from the Slow Flushing Turds, after all they're dumb enough to send money to Shady's beer fund and believe they are supporting his tax deduction, er, I meant to type "welding site".
3/4 close nipple x 2
3/4" Tee x 2
3/4 to 1/4 reducer bushing x 3
1/4 draincock (radiator drain)
1/4 pipe to 3/8 copper compression fitting x 3
3/8 copper tubing - 18" aprox
1/4" valve (1/4 turn ball type threaded)
1/4 x 2" nipple
Beginning with a 20# propane tank, remove the valve by unscrewing it. Just make damn sure the tank is empty before removing the valve.
I accomplish this by pumping a vacuum on the tank, and then putting a few pounds of compressed air in to verify the valve is operational and the passage isn't plugged up. Propane valves seem to be removed easiest with a claw wrench and an impact gun.
It's a good idea to let the tank sit inverted for a week or so after the valve is removed to get the stink out.
Assembly is fairly simple, even the people who hang their helmets at the SlowFlushingTurd website should be able to accomplish it. SFTmembers may not want to remove the stink since they are accustomed to stench.
Begin by applying thread sealing pipe dope to the thread on one 3/4 close nipple, and screwing the nipple into the side of one of the 3/4 Tees.
Apply dope to the other end of the nipple, and screw the assembly into the tank opening. Hand tighten.
Apply dope to a second nipple, and insert it into the side of the second Tee.
Dope the other end, and screw that into the remaining side opening of the Tee already threaded into the tank. Hand tighten.
Dope and install the 3/4 x 1/4 bushings into the remaining openings in the Tees.
Tighten all fittings with appropriate wrenches. Ideally the first Tee next to the tank should be tightened so it faces the opening in the valve guard.
Using a file or drillpress, remove the shoulder from one of the compression fittings so the tubing will slide completely through the fitting.
Install this fitting into the reducer farthest from the tank, so you can slip the copper tube through it into the tank itself. Install the compression ball and nut onto the tube, and slide them into place.
Slip the tube into the tank until you feel it hit the bottom of the tank, then withdraw it about 1", and tighten the compression nut to retain the tube and seal the fitting. Applying lubricant to the ball and nut is recommended to prevent galling.
Install the 1/4" nipple into one side of the valve, using pipe dope, and hand tighten.
Install the 1/4" valve and nipple into the opening of the Tee nearest the tank using pipe dope, and hand tighten.
Install the 1/4" draincock into the reducer on the opening closest to the copper tube.
Tighten all fittings using appropriate wrenches.
Pressure test the assembled unit for leaks with compressed air and soapy water.
Plumbing to the polisher isn't necessarily fancy. Air will enter the device through the 1/4" valve, and exit via the 3/8 copper tube. It can be plumbed with air hose for convenience, or piped into the air system.