Title: Salamander seams - a tutorial
sabersaint - May 13, 2012 03:21 PM (GMT)
Hi there all.
So, a number of people have asked in my "it's not that easy being green" thread about how I achieved my results. I did say that I would do a tutorial a while back, but got really busy with my other project. Sorry. But I am a man of my word, so here goes.
Please note: I have seen much discussion, both here and on other forums lately on the subject of smoothing seams in foam; many have listed different ways of going about it and which stage is most important. understand, I'm not saying any particular way is right or wrong, I'm just sharing the way I've gone about it.
I hope it helps.
Ok, so first off, I'm showing examples with the backpack exhaust ball. this is the piece that most of the time is short-cut and traded out for a round stryofoam ball.
I'm using this piece for the tutorial just to show what results can be achieved with this method.
So, first off we start with a rough cut and glued foam piece.Nothing pretty. I cut all my pieces with a old pair of scissors. I'm not worried about perfect edges, as this is not the stage where the magic happens. ( You will notice that I pinch the glue before it dries, making removal easier.)
sabersaint - May 13, 2012 03:22 PM (GMT)
sabersaint - May 13, 2012 03:23 PM (GMT)
Next I switch over to a much finer grit (220) and repeat. And in this second smotth sanding, the seams all but ment away.
Now, that last pick is getting a little ahead, but I didn't take any pics. of the backpack sealing stage.
sabersaint - May 13, 2012 03:25 PM (GMT)
Ok. Now that we have really smooth seams, we move on the sealing the foam. I use plastidip for this. Use as many layers as you can (several) as you'll watch each hide those smooth seams more and more.
Then comes the painting stage. I used krylon fusions and rustoleum outdoors paints, but the plastidip helps most any paint stick. Again, use several layers of paint as they help hide any imperfections.
And finally, use any of your remaining imperfections in your weathering paint scheme... that's battle damage baby!
sabersaint - May 13, 2012 03:26 PM (GMT)
In the end you should have something like this:
Now, stop listening to me and go back to building.
Shiney - May 13, 2012 05:00 PM (GMT)
sirrober126 - May 13, 2012 05:38 PM (GMT)
Like it... how heavy is foam to the glass build??
Finnlock - May 13, 2012 10:23 PM (GMT)
Thank you, very nicely done.
wookieegunner - May 13, 2012 11:32 PM (GMT)
Thank you very much for the tutorial.
Draco - May 14, 2012 07:15 AM (GMT)
Wow, I didn't know you could sand foam like that. Thanks for the info.
chwbcc - May 17, 2012 03:52 PM (GMT)
I love gator grit 50! It's great on my Rondo pieces too. I will ahve to take a few pads over my bolter and chewie feet and see what kind of results i can get.
Shiney - May 19, 2012 12:59 PM (GMT)
Any chance we can get this stickied or put in a how to section, pretty useful I feel.
Erus - May 21, 2012 07:24 AM (GMT)
Well done. Never woulda thought the mouse sander approach would work.
AmbushHunter - October 13, 2012 02:55 PM (GMT)
So... how do you model the foam like that? By eye, or can you manage to pepakura it somehow?
Last Resort - May 22, 2013 05:05 AM (GMT)
Haha, dude! That is amazing. It's so much better than my half-assed Salamander build at the moment! My main problem is I'm way too lazy to get the shin guards and things like that perfectly rounded :C